Fixing to start my first plane... Best way to build ?

[jlcamp7]

This is my first post. I just picked up my first Guillow's the other day (P-40). I just got into RC flying about 6 months ago and I'm wanting to start learning more about balsa building. Plus I plan to hang this plane up in my sons room.

I've spent some time on here a little bit, reading through some post, but there is just so much information, that it's gonna take me a while. I've tried using the search button, but it's so generalized that all kinds of stuff comes up, when I try to do a specific search. Anyway, I'm sure this question has been answered over and over before, but I figured the best way to end up with a well built plane is to start it correct from the beginning.

I've read some of the tips and things like running sandpaper (some say 320 others 240) along the back side to help in getting the pieces out easier. As far as glue, I'm leaning towards CA (super glue) and using the gel type only when needing for more gap filled applications.

My big question right now before I begin is what's the best way to start the build? The original directions state using a guillows board along with push pins. I know some have stated you can use just regular cork board or a ceiling tile will work as well. Then place wax paper over the plan and pin in place.

However I also know that many are stating they lay glass over the plans, but then use magnets.

I guess my question is, if using glass, is it really that imperative to use magnets. If I have the plans on a table and lay a piece of glass on it if I just taped all the edges down real well, would that work okay?

Also would just a few layers of flat cardboard taped together work the same as the coarkboard?

I'm just wanting to make sure I use the best (meaning easiest for me) way to build up the plane.

I keep getting worried the glue is gonna stick to the wax paper. Even though it "repels" I've read it still will stick some.

Also for those that have used glass, what do you do when your done? Do you just use a razor blade to scrape off any glue build up?

Lastly I've read of people using saran wrap, but I'm not too sure about that method.

Sorry for so many questions, just want to make sure I start it right. Once I get that I think I'll be well on my way, until time to cover, that's a whole nother ball game, and I'll be spending alot of time researching that on the forums.

Oh yeah one last thing, do you guys lightly sand the edges of each piece before putting together, or do you put it all together then sand as a whole before covering?

Thanks so much and I greatly look forward to learning on here as I begin building these models, and hope to eventually conquer the Cessna 180 RC conversion.

Jamie

My question

[Xanadu]

I guess my question is, if using glass, is it really that imperative to use magnets. If I have the plans on a table and lay a piece of glass on it if I just taped all the edges down real well, would that work okay?

Yes, that will work, but obviously you cannot pin the parts to the glass. Anchoring the parts down during the build is what is really the concern, not just the plans. That is why they talk about using magnets, as a way to anchor the parts during glue cure time.
A ceiling tile or thick cardboard is the cheapest building board, just make sure it lays nice and flat, with no warps or bumps. Most of us use a plain ceiling tile, with great success.

Using wax paper is cheap, and it works really good. Yes, the glue may stick a tad, but nothing too bad, and running a blade under the part, or a very thin wire, will release things right away. You may end up with only a 1% stick ratio, so sticking is not a huge issue.
Don't get worried about it sticking bad to the plans unless you do not use anything. As long as use use wax paper, saran wrap, or something similar, things ill be fine.

A razor blade works great for scraping off the glue from glass.

[jlcamp7]

Thanks Xanado. I appreciate it. I actually had a little time this morning before heading out to play with it. I had thick cardboard and saran wrap so I gave it a try. Everything came out nice and tight, so it looks like a great start to start on my first build.
Also I took a small piece of cardboard and tried super gluing it to the saran wrap. I was AMAZED! not only would it not stick at all, but it left no residue. I assumed CA would stick or maybe even eat right through it. But it looks like it will work like a charm. I will begin building on Monday. Thanks so much for the info. I figured the best way to learn is to start just doing it.

[jlcamp7]

Sorry, I meant Xanadu!

[lukebozek1]

Here are a couple items on construction;
Building Board - Without a nice flat surface that you can pin parts down directly over the plans you will never get a straight, balanced model that looks good. You can get a 24” X 36” soft pine board at the lumber company or you can buy a nice professional board for about 5 bucks more that will never warp and is soft enough that the common pins go directly into the wood. These go for 15 to 30 bucks depending on size. With a smaller wingspan plane you can get by pretty cheap.
Try this link
http://www.espritmodel.com/index.asp?Pa ... rodID=5185
The way this board works, (1) you will put the paper model plan sheet down on the board. Some plans are printed only on one side and can be cut to put the plan section directly on the board that you are working on; (2) you will cover the model plan sitting on the board with Wax Paper some people like saran-wrap; (3) after this you will tape the wax paper to the board over the plan. When you glue pieces together directly over the plan, and pin them to the board to keep them in place while they dry, they won’t stick to the plan and tear a hole in the paper plan sheets after the glue dries. I figured this out after I screwed up a few times when I was about ten or eleven years old.

Push Pins, as I mentioned above, at any craft shop pick up some common pins with the little white plastic heads that you can push and pull. Not the pins we use on Bulletin Boards with the plastic bodies, they are too thick. The web site above has T-Pins that are pretty nice, but I use a Common Pin, the kind they hide in a new shirt and these work just fine. Probably cost you $2.00 total for a few hundred with the little white bead.

Glues, your choice. I like the Testors, they have the quick dry and the not-so-quick dry tubes that give you a chance to position the parts before it sets up. With the CA, stand by for some irritation when you get glued directly to the parts. I didn't say "if" I said "when." This is a sure bet. Use some medium sandpaper before you wash up for bed.

Good luck! Start Small and remember that your son will love anything that you do. Because you built it, you will know where every weakness and flaw is located. when Rodin finished his "Thinker" he stood back, gazed upon his results, sighed and said "I'll get it better next time." Oh check out the Virtual Airdrome website on the specific kit that you are doing. It is a cornucopia of good information.

[wmikedavis]

FOAMULAR® 250 Rigid Foam Insulation by Qwens Corning can be purchased in 24" x 96" x 2" sheets at Home Depot for around $20
T-pins, push pins, map pins all hold very well in this dense material. You can cut to size with a handsaw. Place your plans on the board and pin some waxed paper over them making sure to stretch out any wrinkles. Just make sure that you keep waxed paper between any CA glue, acetone, or dope and the insulation. Those items will melt the foam. I have a 60" x 24" piece ready to start a Guillow's PBY after I complete my 2nd Sterman