xbarrioz wrote:I have another question /
as you can see on my last picture, I've covered the wings with "papier de soie" (silk paper) 20g/m2
glued the edges with UHU stick and shrink with 90°alcool that I airbrushed. (there are still some defaults on the wintips )
now that i'ts done, can I let it in this state, or do I have to apply dope for strength (but in an other hand, more wejght)?
...
Xavier,
You can also use a misting of spray, acrylic artists fixative as a substitute for dope. It works as well to fix the tissue although it is not as totally waterproof as dope, if not over applied is lighter, comes in a convenient spray can, dries faster, and is, for the most part, less toxic than dope. (Nitrate dope was originally produced as coffin varnish!)
In the US we use Krylon Crystal Clear #1303 regular, or #1305 UV resistant fixative. For a matte finish we use #1309. If Krylon products are not sold in France you must have equivalent products made locally. After all, France is a country of artists!
I have a question. Is the "papier de soie" what we call "silkspan" in the US? If it is the same thing it can be applied wet and pulled around the curved ends of the wing tips to avoid wrinkles. I think there are some tutorials on "wet" covering that have been posted on the forum in the past. (See the thread "Covering Round Fuselage With Domestic Tissue" by scigs30.) With a little practice, and a light touch, you can also cover "wet" with the domestic tissue supplied in the kit. When I can I use "Esaki" tissue from Japan. It is lighter and has good wet strength. The Beaver in the photo was covered with domestic tissue. In fact it is all tissue except for the engine image printed on bond paper. There is no paint on it anywhere. (Yes, I know that the exhaust stack is on the wrong side.)
Again, hope this helps.
Howard