Guillows Cub 303 r/c electric 2nd build

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Guillows Cub 303 r/c electric 2nd build

Postby Bill Gaylord » Thu Jan 28, 2016 2:58 am

Built one of these before years ago as one of my first builds, and was a real hack job. :shock: Eventually managed to get it flying (basically just for entertainment value) at the astronomically high AUW of something close to 9oz! Figured I'd get around to building another some day.

Probably the best reference for this build (certainly not the first build) would be the Guilows Robin. Would be a perfect 4ch flyer, if the positive wing incidence had been reduced a bit. I constructed this just a bit differently than per plan. First, there's a large degree of positive wing incidence for an r/c bulid, which is what I'm building. It is also quite likely excessive for rubber power also. I glued a tapered stringer (pic below) to the stabilizer support area of the fuse center keel, to raise the front of the stabilizer roughly 1/32" (added positive incidence) which effectively reduces the positive wing incidence. My rule of thumb is to set the stabilizer level with the flat bottom side of the wing. The shim is about 1/32" in height at the front, tapered to zero at the rear. The stabilizer support stringers on either side were replaced with light 1/16" balsa sheet supports, matching the fuse side keel contour.

Experimenting with gear, so far the 1.7gm HK digital servos are both fast and precise with a diode BEC voltage drop (see diode in pic below) to approximately 4.3v. I'm not sure if these are 4.2v rated servos, but some sub-micros are and they are plenty fast on 4.3v, and 5v BEC voltage will destroy 4.2v max rated servos. I've had no issues with using the diode drop on 4.2v micro linear servos. Unlike some of these sub-micro servos, all 4 seem to perform equally well. I'm about through with micro linear servos, if these pan out well, as you need at least 6 of those, if you want 4 useful ones.

Before stringing the fuse, I figured I'd check the cowl fit as well as possible, as some of these are not always 100% perfect. This one seems good, with my cowl mounting plate almost identically matching the plan pattern. They don't supply the white nylon firewall plate anymore, and at it's heavy weight, I'd prefer to use hard balsa anyway, which will accept motor mounting screws well. The nose portion of the fuse will be inset planked and sanded, to blend in flush with the outer cowl surface. The cowl plate has been mounted to the fuse with the cowling cut away from the plastic molding sheet, and fits well. No photo yet, due to the photo posting limit.
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Re: Guillows Cub 303 r/c electric 2nd build

Postby davidchoate » Thu Jan 28, 2016 4:23 am

Why can't I see any photos.? It is just a small windows, 3 of them, with jpg numbers. 9 oz.? Holy ***t. I am also done with bricks, linear servos, and all that stuff. I have found that spending a bit more saves $ in the long run. Those 300 kits are all heavy, but nice. I think there are too many ribs in the wings, and a one piece wing (now that I know how) is a standard modification whenever possible.
Last edited by davidchoate on Sat Feb 06, 2016 10:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Guillows Cub 303 r/c electric 2nd build

Postby Bill Gaylord » Fri Jan 29, 2016 1:06 am

davidchoate wrote:Why can't I see any photos.? It is just a small windows, 3 of them, with jpg numbers. 9 oz.? Holy ***t. I am also done with bricks, linear servos, and all that stuff. I have found that spending a bit more saves $ in the long run. Those 300 kits are all heavy, but nice. I think there are too many ribs in the wings, and a one piece wing (now that I know how) is a standard modification whenever possible.
For wing strength, a hair of beefing up certainly doesn't hurt this design. At least use a basswood stringer on the upper front center cabin cross support, with a hair of gusseting to tie it in to the wing mounting former. The external struts pretty much provide adequate reinforcement, other than the wing tearing away issue caused by a frontal hit at the tip or cartwheeling, which is the reason for the cabin bracing.

My issues with the bricks and micro linear servos are as follows.
1. The bricks are 3A rated, where a 6A ESC is not only more robust, but mounted in the serviceable cowling, where it can get some air exchange.
2. Like #1, the BEC chip can also get some cooling in the cowl, and is replaceable with the ESC.
3. Horizon micro linear servos blow H-bridges all too often. This is seen when the servo goes to one end on power up, and stays there.
4. Micro linear servos hang up, due to potentiometer issues. I understand the contaminant issues, but the problems I've had have occurred before contamination could be an issue. One would think that with something like 4 contact leaves, that this design would be more reliable than a small rotary pot, but that hasn't proven to be the case. Again you often can't get to the brick easily, for serviceability.
5. Mounting. The holes require porting for all but the smallest screws. I've come up with various serviceable mounting schemes, but they are more effort than simply mounting a standard servo.
6. I've used 3s with 6A ESCs with no problem, including ones rated for 2s. The bricks and micro linear servos are 2s max rated.
7. Cost. The last bl brick I bought was on sale at $30. I maybe should have bought a few more at that price, but not at the standard price.

Going back to the serviceability issue, this model will be fully serviceable, with standard design 1.7gm servos. The tail servos are mounted between the landing gear legs where they enter the fuse, and even allow for the plan landing gear scheme to be used. I could make a small access door, but irregardless cutting away a small patch of covering between the gear legs, from the center fuse keel to the first outward stringer on either side, will provide servo access from the fuse bottom. The servo arm holes were downsized with epoxy, for .020" pushrod wire. This setup worked out really well, as the pushrods could be installed into the servo horns, with the horns already installed on the servos. The laser cut slots cut into the fuse formers for the landing gear mounting just happen to work out perfectly, allowing the pushrods and servos to be fit into their mounts, with the pushrods going into the cut slots as you are installing the servos. Without those laser cut LG leg mounting slots, one would have to flex the heck out of the pushrods, to work the servos into their mounts, in the small area between the fuse formers. I'm not a fan of installing servo control horns after servo installation, as the horn should be held when tightening the screw, to avoid damaging the servo gears. Just a small notch, cut into the edge of each laser cut LG leg mounting slot, provides the pushrod entry hole in the fuse former halves, for each servo. Hopefully all this can be seen in the pictures.

The Park 180 motor came without a mount, which was fabricated from plastic tubing, epoxied to the motor mounting tube. I had a ply micro motor mount on hand, which worked perfectly for the mount base. I used this motor, since the 10gm Hextronic with mount included wasn't available at the time. Also just got a 2s-200 Hyperion lipo in the mail today, which will easily fit in the front fuselage bay, along with the receiver. Again using a tapped prop saver for the prop mount, as I have a number of them. They're otherwise useless to me, with a rubber band mounting scheme that would look terrible. The front is tapped for a #2-56 prop retaining screw.

Also shown in one photo below is the steerable tailwheel, with aluminum tubing bushing. The bushing will glue to the rear edge of the fuse, and the steering arm is bent 90 degrees, entering into a hole drilled into the rudder. All the clearances including tail surface hinge gaps have been worked out for this setup.
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Re: Guillows Cub 303 r/c electric 2nd build

Postby Bill Gaylord » Sat Jan 30, 2016 5:04 am

Moving along on this project, with all the harnessing made and the receiver and aileron harness fitted in the fuse. Tested everything, as I don't care to track down any problems after it's all assembled. With this type of model, the aileron Y-harness will exit the base wing formers at the cocpit on either side, and then be soldered to the wing harnesses before attaching the wings at final assembly. The ESC and wiring are a tight fit in the cowling, with the ESC mounted with an angled wedge between it and the firewall, to allow cooling air to all surfaces.

The landing gear struts were notched and fitted with thin carbon fiber spars, which are flush with the balsa sheet surface once glued in place. The notching is a bit of precision work, but worth the effort, without going to something like 1/32" ply for the struts. They also provide a strong point for gluing the landing gear wires to, at the bottom of the struts. Note the short stringer lengths used as reinforcement gussets, glued where the carbon fiber spars sit adjacent to the fuse formers. I thought about different ways to redesign the setup, but the plan setup isn't bad, with a bit of reinforcement for r/c.
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Re: Guillows Cub 303 r/c electric 2nd build

Postby davidchoate » Sun Jan 31, 2016 2:37 pm

I just got one of those Orange micro Rxers. I was skeptikal at a Spektrum knockoffs reliability, but since have read some good reviews. I got the $65 Spektrum AR6335 2g Rx with 3 axis stab. and programmable, but Thats more than I wanted. I can now see the photos, and am glad to see that I have naturally progressed to almost the same way You do it. Except that after this whole Pull-Pull thing I think thats gonna be a standard from now on. And also I may try replacing all the glued together tail piesces with Laminated outlines. The y are stronger, and cures the tail heavy Guillows problem. At least You have a LC Kit. I did a 300 Aeronca Champ, and it looked great, but thar die cut wood is so damn heavy that I never flew it. I can not believe That Faichild is 140g AUW ! And I learned how to do the math, and with what I am using it should Fly good. I even found that microlite covering. .6g/yard sq. Is Parklite made by Hangar 9 lighter than Monokote? They do not state the weight any wherre. But anyways I just wanted to thank You for steering Me in the right direction. I am on the edge of My seat waiting to see how You do ailerons, and someday retracts. I took a 400 Spitfire Plan and had it enlarged to 36" WS, and will try and do the MPi retracts on that, as the wing is roomy and shapey I thought it may be a good 1st attempt PLane. Later Bill.
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Re: Guillows Cub 303 r/c electric 2nd build

Postby Bill Gaylord » Tue Feb 02, 2016 3:46 am

Good to see you're still at it David, versus taking the instant gratification UMX micro RTF route that most people take these days. That little orange receiver unit came from another flyer, and has got in a number of flights in a Herr Pitts. So far so good. I've been buying the little Lemon receivers now, which have worked well so far. As for Parklite, it's probably not much lighter than Monokote, and probably about the same as Ekonokote. It's an interesting covering, in that it has a very gummy adhesive. Once down at all, you can't pull it back up, or the adhesive will come off of the covering. I would imagine it's probably really good for seaplanes however, when it comes to sealing seams. It was the perfect color for my Miles M38, which nobody else seems to have. Worked out really well on that model. I've used it on a few models and it is decent stuff, but Microlite is the way to go for these small models, if using iron-on covering. Some like doculam also.

The wing is mostly finished now, with an interesting servo fit into the wing formers. I considered a single servo setup, but it would have to mount in the rear of the upper cabin, to be hidden from the clear cocpit roof. Looping the cable (thin wire) back toward the TE would encourage freeplay, which is already an issue in cable setups. The 1.7 gram HK servos just barely fit into the wing formers. To make them fit, .015 music wire was laminated onto both sides of the former, between the area cut out for the servo, and the bottom of the stringer notch cut into the wing formers. There's literally only about .020" between the cutout and the stringer notch. The bottom edges of the wing formers were notched .020" deep, with .020" clear sheet plastic strips glued into the notches. They look fragile, but they're actually quite strong, with the wire reinforcement and clear plastic bottoms. The plastic sheet former bottom strips also glue to the small balsa blocks laminated to the formers for added servo mounting screw thread depth, which strengthens their glue attachment scheme a bit.

The wing has cut-away ailerons built in, with shims between the aileron and wing headers, simulating the hinge gap. The aileron servos will be mounted on the second former inward, from the rear wing struts attachment points. This leaves ample clearance between the servo horns and the struts, and makes it possible to actually access them if necessary, although it would be tight. The servos could have been mounted further outward toward the tips and beyond the strut attachment points, but they're more visible there. I made the mistake of mounting servos a bit close to the strut attachment points before, solved with fairly short servo horns which I don't care for, as that can cause play in the ailerons. Shimming down the strut mounting points would also solve that issue, but would not look good.
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Re: Guillows Cub 303 r/c electric 2nd build

Postby woundedbear » Sat Feb 06, 2016 3:18 am

Hi Dudes,
I have a Guillow's 303 cub in the works, I've got the fuselage frame,and tail frames built as well as the wing frames. I left the center wing spars long and cut holes for sliding them through the side cabin frames. My idea was to join them in the center and reinforce the joint with a shallow v piece on the front and back, in the middle. This is one of my, "receding hair brained ideas" LOL, But could any body give me an idea as to the degree I should use for the dihedral? I am building it as a rubber powered FF airplane so the main wing dihedral needs to be higher than the scale model wing shown on the plan sheet. The instruction sheet says to use the lengths of the wing braces to determine the dihedral of the main wing, for a flyer. As shown in the instruction sheet on building a flying model you leave the lengths of the support braces as they come out of the laser cut sheet, but if you are building it as a scale display model you cut the wing braces shorter. The line drawings for the scale model show the main wings as straight, with no dihedral at all. But I've been thinking maybe if I were to add a little more dihedral,"say 3/32 to 1/8th inch on each side", it would give the finished airplane a little more flight stability,"here where I live near the, Uwharrie Mountains, the wind blows all of the time". I also have plans to perhaps rebuild the tail surfaces using some 3/32 inch contest balsa stock that I have. I've started using SIG Bond glue it's labeled as a, "Aliphatic Resin glue", to do most of my building now. I have found that once good and dry. SIG BOND sands very well. it is also labeled as," dope and fuel proof ". I still use CA glue but it's like somebody said here on the Guillow's forum. CA glue is heavy and if you do much sanding, the balsa wood goes away very fast and the, "dried", CA glue is like sanding solid rock! I have 4 Guillow's kits going, and 7 more waiting in the wings,"no pun intended". I have all but the main wing frame of my 400 series P-51 built up in stock parts,"the laser cut parts that came in the kits". I need advice on the 303 cub only, so far. And as always a preemptive thank you for any advice anybody can give me. The Wounded Bear, Oh, "Yeah", the reason I have never posted any photographs is because I don't have a camera, "yet", and the reason I've been working on the same airplane kits for so long is because I also build polystyrene plastic display models, and have 4 on my bench right now and a large stash of models to build. My older brother says that I have a sickness! But there are so many models that I want to build! I mostly have WWII airplanes and about 8 model cars," so far" and two model tank kits,"the tank kits have radio control stuff that came with them", so I guess my older brother is right I do have a sickness! I don't know if any of you suffer from the same affliction, "but boy it sure is fun!" I hope at least one of you have read this far, if so you are probably thinking this guy has a problem, well your right I am the poster guy for Dyslexia, guys like me have a lot of trouble with math, spelling, and, communicating when we try to write, but if you can follow me I do have my moments, strange momentary lapses of reason, but not no where nearly enough. Well Thanks again, for any help you can give me on the dihedral question, about my kit # 303 Piper Cub. That I started out to asking about.
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Re: Guillows Cub 303 r/c electric 2nd build

Postby Bill Gaylord » Sat Feb 06, 2016 5:25 pm

Probably a good idea to start a build thread, since it's rubber and you already have a build started, but FWIW:
5 degrees is a general figure for high wing FF and RET stability.
Using the tangent function, Tangent = opposite/adjacent
Tan 5deg = dihedral shim height/wing panel length (11" for this model)
dihedral shim height = 1" (at the wingtip)

As for the wing strut braces, I made a set from harder but thinner 1/16" balsa, which is still stronger than the LC parts, especially considering that they were cut in a soft area of the sheet. The LC struts are a bit thick also, for scale appearance. Made per plan, a test fit shows they would probably set adequate rubber or RET dihedral. Mine will be shortened a bit, with aileron control.

I used that figure on my C150 with RET controls, which is very stable. It looks a bit off scale and you can get away with less, but the stability decreases. I've noticed for models this size that under 3/4" significantly decreases "hands off" stability and self correction for RET controls. For either FF or RET, trimming/build straightness/thrust adjustments will have a major factor on how much the dihedral angle can be reduced, with adequate stability.

For the cabin/wing reinforcement, the design is adequately robust IMO, with a few details. (see picture below for details) First, I used a basswood 1/16" stringer on the upper front cabin cross-stringer. At this point, the stringer is probably stronger than the glue joint attachment to the upper cabin wing formers. A small gusset was installed on either side under the stringer to increase the joint strength and gluing area. The gussets were cut with the grain running along the direction of the long side of the gusset triangle, as always. The photo showing these gussets is a bit unclear. Hard balsa spars were also used for the window pillars. The "V" braces that sit behind the front glass are made using carbon fiber rod. The rods are glued into holes drilled into the inset planked nose, right against the top center fuse stringer. This provides a solid glue joint for the V braces. The glass also provides a significant amount of "stressed skin" strength, provided it is made from a single piece per plan, and fully glued around the edges, versus a few tack spots. I install the glass before covering, and trim the covering during installation, which hides the glass edges as well as providing balsa for a strong attachment surface for the glass.

The tailwheel assembly is now glued to a rounded notch sanded into the rear fuse keel, before covering. Thin 1/32" balsa strips were glued along the glue joint on either side, which provide added glue strength, as well as keeping the Mircrolite iron-on covering from dipping into the rear fuse keels in those areas.

Looking at photos of the full scale aircraft, the upper fuse profile is not exactly scale, while the plan also calls for a steep transition from the wing TE, to the fuse, made with short stringer lengths. I lengthened this transition a bit (3rd pic), which blends more smoothly with the top wing contour, as well as making covering easier to attach. The fuse top is now covered with no wrinkles, which would have probably been an issue if this transition had been any more abrupt.
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Re: Guillows Cub 303 r/c electric 2nd build

Postby davidchoate » Sat Feb 06, 2016 6:10 pm

i DO NOT KNOW WHY BUT i CAN ONLY SEE PHOTOS FROM MY DESKTOP AT HOME. MY LAPTOP just shows a jpg. number in a square rectangle. I am dying to see Your phot6os of ailerons. I have an old plan from 1942 from piper called "Wings of Youth", and the Plans are 25" WS and super nice as far as scale goes. The winner in 1942 got a job at the Piper Cub factory, and a full engineering scholarship. I think times have changed. Anyway, I blew it up to a 30" ws JUST BECAUSE IT SEEMS THAT THAT LITTLE MORE WING AREA MAKES A LOT OF DIFFERENCE WHEN DOING 4-ch. i DID mY fAIRCHILD 3 ch. And I enlarged a Guillows 400 Spitfire to 34" from 28" for My retract experiment. I acquired A Dumas Dornier Arrow Kit for $10 off E-Bay. I also Got a Guillows DC-32/ C-47 Kit, and I have had a Guillows B-25 kit For some time. I am Dying ti build a multi engine Airplane. I researched the Dornier, and though never produced it is a good candidate. With 177 sq. in. wing area and already 30" WS, and I am going to have to lighten the Guillows a lot, but the Push Pull idea of the Dornier Do335 Arrow Is very interesting, and will not take as much difficulty to modify, I will try it. I have heard the C-47 flies well, though it was a display kit. Oh well back to My ailerons on The Fw190.The glue oughta be dry by now. I'll look forward to seeing Your pics later.
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Re: Guillows Cub 303 r/c electric 2nd build

Postby Bill Gaylord » Sat Feb 06, 2016 6:35 pm

As of lately David, their new one for me is that they keep logging me out. :shock: Starting to get a bit old...
I've done a few slight span cheats in the past, to add a bit more area. A bit of deviation from scale, but certainly doesn't hurt. I understand what you're saying about size in general however. With some models, a slight difference makes them much more practical. The B25 is a good example, where at 30" span we'd probably see at least a good few successful r/c conversions. The C47 is their best kept secret. Although I cheated span an inch or so, I could have built it a good bit lighter and it would have no issue with the scale span. It's an amazingly good flyer, especially considering it's weight. Flies like a much lighter model.
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Re: Guillows Cub 303 r/c electric 2nd build

Postby davidchoate » Sat Feb 06, 2016 7:01 pm

I research My builds, and on RC Groups, Or Wattflyer, The C-47 seems to be like You said, Guillows best kept secret. The B-25 has a lot of plastic, butr I have learned how to build a nacelle. Probably would not use the plastic anyway.. I bought an RC Glow engine. Dont know why. Sentimental maybe. I would love to get into Gas motors, but they are pricy. and I do not know why. I overhaul automotive engines for a living, and I dont see much difference between a 2 stroke RC 50cc and a weedwacker engine. And You turned me on to HURC. Do You notice they have like no inventory lately?
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Re: Guillows Cub 303 r/c electric 2nd build

Postby Bill Gaylord » Wed Feb 10, 2016 3:39 pm

I'm always thinking of building another B25 for r/c. I think making plaster molds and remolding the nacelles from thin acetate would certainly help, but a lot of work. Someone really need to get one of those flying as an r/c conversion, and definitely possible. On Hurc they have been out of some stuff lately. I should have got more of the 1.7gm servos from HK when I ordered them also. They're out now, and they seem really nice so far, on this model. Oh well, they still have a 1.9 gm version available. Sometimes I wish these places would charge more, so people don't "stock up" on stuff to the hoarding level, that they'll never use. Along the same lines are the resellers, who would quit doing essentially the same thing, if their margins were lower. Combine that with more people going RTF, and the micro gear for hobbyists can be more difficult to find.

This Cub build should have been finished long ago, if I was more exited about covering. I'll probably finish soon now, with the fuse covered. Covering and trimming around the plastic windows is difficult, as it requires just a light and fast swipe with the iron, right along the edges of the plastic where the covering overlaps. Staying in one spot for more than an instant will warp the heck out of the glass. Lowering the temperature helps, although it still has to be hot enough for the adhesive to work. I have a template cut out for the rear window masks, and will have to mask off the remaining glass, tailwheel, etc for a light coat of yellow paint over the covering. I'm not a fan of the partial transparency, where a light finish coat makes a much better looking finished model.

The clear sheet plastic control horns work well on these small models. A small slot is cut into the control surface, which will hold them in place while gluing. I cut a small notch into the front and rear of the control horn, which sets the insertion depth of the horn by creating a "ledge". Sliding the horns a slight bit forward or rearward can be done to center the control surface, before gluing the horns in place. I use thick CA, as it can be controlled well when applying, with a balsa stick or something similar. I've learned NOT to use activator however, as the CA will continue to seep into the joint for around 15 minutes, creating a more solid attachment versus hardening the glue immediately.
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Re: Guillows Cub 303 r/c electric 2nd build

Postby Bill Gaylord » Sat Feb 13, 2016 12:11 am

The wings are now attached, with the top covering to be installed after soldering the aileron servo wires. This makes it easier to pack the soldered joints with shrink tube into the small area in the wing, without having to shove them into the fuse or the wing, requiring a larger hole in the formers. If shoved into the wing after the wing was fully covered, they tend to stick up in the covering and are visible. The covering will also overlap the top canopy glass joint on the top cocpit formers, covering the seams between the wing panels and the fuse, and will be trimmed off at the tape mask line. Not shown in the photo is the strut joints. The struts have a wire glued between the strut ends where they join together and attach to the fuse, which inserts into the fuse and is glued in place. Nicks placed on the wire ends create a better glue joint. The strut mount sockets on the wing panels are not only boxed in, as per plan, but are chamfered for a perfect "snap in" fit for the strut ends. First one wing panel is set, with the struts trimmed to set dihedral and washout, with washout adjusted by trimming the rear strut to desired length. When fitting the second panel, the struts are slowly filed down just a few thousandths at a time, to perfectly match the dihedral and washout angles of the first panel. Double strut setups are a bonus, as they allow these angles to be set with precision.

The landing gear wire attachments to the balsa gear legs use trimmed control horn ends, which are slid over the wire and glued to the balsa gear legs. They are difficult to see under the glue, but are there, creating a strong attachment, as they are glued to the carbon fiber spars which were previously laminated in recessed notches cut into the balsa gear legs. The nylon horn ends were first scuffed with sandpaper, as nylon tends to not glue well otherwise.
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Re: Guillows Cub 303 r/c electric 2nd build

Postby Bill Gaylord » Sat Feb 20, 2016 7:34 pm

30,000 pounds of paint later, it's balanced. Actually it wasn't that bad, although I don't care for the semi-transparent effect of the Microlite covering. We had a 58 degree day here, so I finally got around to painting it, where I could vent the basement at the same time. The masking will be removed when dry. The long prop adapter will not be used, and is only there for something to hold the model with, when painting. Once painted, I could also grab the masked tailwheel and carefully set the model on the table.

The aileron diagram is a rough sketch, but shows how to get a reasonable estimation of aileron travel, based on servo throw and servo horn height. The aileron control horn and/or servo horn height/s can be adjusted to provide the desired aileron travel, without being excessive. The idea is to have both horns at approximately the same height if possible, and as long as possible, to minimize the effects of free play. The balsa shim thickness was then determined to set the minimum aileron gap necessary for the desired aileron travel.

Just got a B25 the other day. Maybe I'll try a second build of the B25 also. My first (in the photo also) was a complete tank built as one of my first builds. This one will probably not have LG, will have lighter stringer stock, and definitely lighter LE stock, as the LE stock is the common oak provided. The tail surfaces will also have to be built lighter.
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Re: Guillows Cub 303 r/c electric 2nd build

Postby davidchoate » Sat Feb 20, 2016 9:31 pm

I can see photos today. I am about to use Microlite for the 1st time. I was nervous about Monokote, but it turned out excellent. I got Parklite, but they gave no weight specs, and it feelsa about the same as monokote, and so I got quite a stock of covering for a larger Plane. It is really cheaper in the end than painting if You added up all the little things that go with a paintjob. But on some scale Planes there is just no substitute for paint. My Fairchild thread disappeared somehow. Floatin around in Cyberspace I suppose. If they ever invent a Transporter like on Star Trek, I will never use it. I'm not too fond of Flying anymore either after what I have learned in the last few years. I mean Commercial modern Planes. I have seen a old film of Ernst Udet doing loops in a bipe with engone off, and inches from the ground. Even these Rx with 3 Axis Stab. Take the human factor out of Flying. I admit as a learning tool they're great, but I want to FLY the thing Myself, and feel the wind pull me into a tree. RTF self trimming mistake proof Planes. Really? Sorry, Bill, I got way off topic. What size PROP You got on it.? I think its a 6" probably, but what pitch, and do You figure out Your AUW and stall speeds, and WATTS like I have? They told Me its very important on RC Group. That forum has some good threads if You have Years to dig through all the Guys threads who just feel like they gotta prove they know as much as the other Guy. No one on here really talks about it that much due to the Rubber Power mostly, but I get a lot from here. The other Forums are so busy I can not find My own Threads and Questions. Except a few times Guys emailed Me personal. I dont want to staeal Your secrets, but Please, when Your ready to Fly it, Can You break down the details? Thanks again, and wish Me luck with My Fairchild. I swear I came up with the same idea of using old propsavers to adapt My props on My own. Apparently We think somewhat alike. I too am dying to do a twin motor next. And I am seriously going to go Glow engine on somethin soon too! Oh, how I miss an engine.Sometimes. There is a good Thread on the B-25 on RC Forums. A female builder sent Me the proven Modifications. I'll Try and find Her Name and give it to You.
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davidchoate
 
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