New#902 and questions answered/asked.

[Balsa Pilot]

Thanks to all for the tips and help.
Sealing the tissue and painting the model were the two major issues that had plagued me, since modeling rediscovered me last year. The white glue mixed 70/30 with water acts exactly like dope, but without the smell, using the wet covering method. Very good results were achieved. Then two choices exist, sealing the tissue with a coat of the glue water mix and then spraying with Krylon clear acrylic fixative, or simply spraying the shrunk tissue with the Krylon. If just spraying the tissue without the glue/water mix, a couple of mist coats works well, with a possible 3rd coat a bit heavier to completely seal it up. It goes on very easily, and after about 4 hours is fully cured. It shrinks and firms the tissue quite nicely and when you apply paint (either spray or brushed acrylic or enamel) on the tissue, it doesn't sag or bow. Just stays nice and tight and seems a lot firmer as well.
I was so happy at how the painting/covering turned out I went and bought the #902 Cessna Bird Dog.This is planned to be a milestone for me as the goal is to have it stay aloft for more than a minute.Incidentally, this was the kit that got me started 50 years ago, as a gift from my uncle. No doubt there will be a few questions on how to get this to trim out for that kind of flight, but that's why we're all here in the first place.

Some people talk of a 2015 "G" Challenge?? What's that all about? Is it something anyone can participate in?

If there are those of you that use a "Dremel" type tool to clear out extra wood for weight savings etc., they certainly seem worth the effort? Someone had pictures of a really cool example of hollowing out a horizontal stab/frame of a -190 ?, and I wondered was the work done in a jig or hand held ?, which got me thinking,and, while all the bells and whistles are cool, what are the really important attachments to have?
Of note, I took more advice and bought 2 commercial ceiling tiles, and joined them together. Now I've got a SOLID work table. Is a real worktable from Easy-Bilt, or Guillow's better than this? Granted the steel and magnets example is very smooth, but the shipping costs to Canada would be rough,(if they'll ship it at all).

I've got pictures of the DHC-2 Beaver #302LC build and the float conversion, if I can ever figure out how to get them to upload, plus a few older tries at scale ships from the #400 series.

Have a great day all, back to the Hanger
Henry

[PsyberPhlier]

Henry,

You don't need to buy a fancy steel magnetic building board...

Fairchild 2a.jpg

I made this little setup for 18.00 USD give er take. I went to a local metal fabricator and he had a piece of scrap that my 2 foot by roughly 3 foot sheet was cut from. Plasma cutting and edge grinding, 10 buck. I then logged on to Amazon Prime and purchased 20 Magnets for 8 bucks, free shipping. At 14 gauge it is much heavier than you can buy thus more true IMHO. I think there is an Amazon.ca right? so no over the border shipping?

Below it you will see my previous building board, in blue. 1/4 sheet of good old wet area 1/2 inch sheet rock. I bought the entire sheet four years ago and still use this quarter from time to time. That nets out to be about 2.57 USD for a board to lay on my workbench.

Ted

[BillParker]

Some people talk of a 2015 "G" Challenge?? What's that all about? Is it something anyone can participate in?

Here's the thread for the 2015 "G" Challenge... Tells you everything you need to know...

http://balsamodels.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3282

bp

[WIDDOG]

Very interesting topic/post. I think the Guillow's Bird Dog kit 902 has got to be my favorite kit. I will enter a Bird Dog in this years G Challenge 2015. This is a earlier attempt of me flying a Bird Dog. I used a 6 inch prop. I think it would have done better with a 7 inch prop. https://youtu.be/nHXhz9eQK9g

[Balsa Pilot]

Hello all, its a lovely day in paradise.

Just ordered the C-150 Commuter, can't wait for that to arrive.

Ted, thanks for the tip, I know a guy just like that, Ill see him next week!
B.Parker,thanks for the site. I'm trying to enroll in the G competition right now. It will be the #900 series O1E-1 Bird Dog.
WIDDOG: Thanks for your comments, and very cool video! That's just what I hope mine will do.

Does anyone know of a site that shows real aircraft in combat/setting, where you can pick the aircraft? It seems a free 10 points for the resemblance is a no-brainer???
Kind of makes sense as well, as its a respect/tribute kind of thing.

Also, whats a blast tube? I always thought they were the nozzle at the end of MG barrels. If they are to protect the inside of the fuselage from a motor explosion, then, What is it made of, and do I make one or, are they available at the LHS?

Is my goal of +1 minute with the Bird Dog reasonable??, do I need to infill the nose?, and would the kit rubber be sufficient? Do I need to consider a winder or will finger winding suffice?,and will the rubber need to be lubed?,I have zero experience with that. Plus whats a good number of turns when I get it balanced and gliding well?

So Many questions, thanks in advance for your help

Henry

[WIDDOG]

Is my goal of +1 minute with the Bird Dog reasonable??, do I need to infill the nose?, and would the kit rubber be sufficient? Do I need to consider a winder or will finger winding suffice?,and will the rubber need to be lubed?,I have zero experience with that. Plus whats a good number of turns when I get it balanced and gliding well?

I don't know about the 1 minute flight times. I don't think infill the nose is necessary. No way is the kit rubber, propeller sufficient. Yes you will need to "Stretch Wind". Yes you will need to lube the rubber. Yes the model will have to be trimmed.

Awhile ago i make a video on Stretch Winding. Even though i have been doing this a few years now i still am learning. https://youtu.be/M-KOZnsNV6g. BTW the winder is putting in 10 winds for every one turn of the handle.

Keith

[BillParker]

I used a 6 inch prop. I think it would have done better with a 7 inch prop.

If I could get one to fly like that video you shared, I'd be telling everyone that I invented the airplane!

Just curious... How would a 7" prop make it better?

bp

[BillParker]

Does anyone know of a site that shows real aircraft in combat/setting, where you can pick the aircraft?

Maybe you mean something like this?:

http://wp.scn.ru/

where you can find:



and thousands more...

[WIDDOG]

I seen a flight video of a Guillow's kit no 906 Typhoon on this forum. https://youtu.be/XVLjRVddASo. I think he is using a 7 inch propeller. Anyway I have a disagreement with one of the G challenge rules. It's the one about using kit wood. It sort of seems to me like "Luck Of The Draw". I don't mind cutting out the parts from Contest Balsa wood.

[BillParker]

It is luck of the draw. No argument. BUT. It's a level playing field. There's lots of guys who've never heard of or it never occurred to them that there is such a thing as "contest balsa..."

It's simply a starting place.

[WIDDOG]

Good point well made Bill. I think that the 900 series is a very good place to start for rubber power FF. I presently am working on a Dumas 17.5 inch F4U Corsair. When I am done with the Corsair I will work on a Guillow's 902 Bird Dog. Also I have an old Sterling kit of the Bird Dog. I am going to take the "Action Feature" from the Sterling kit and try to modify it to the Guillow''s kit.

[Mitch]

Okay here is my advice...

You are allowed to make some changes for the contest... so do it.

7 inch prop. All the guys and gals in FAC competition go with prop of 40% ws. Wingspan of your model is 18 inches... .4 x 18 = 7.2 inches.

Use contest rubber... you are allowed so do it. Lube it...definitely. There is a formula for how many winds your rubber should hold before it breaks. Go to 90% of that for your competition flights. I do not have my book with me... or you can wind a section of rubber until it breaks, then you know what that batch will take. I plan to buy a lot of rubber when I get home and plan to do just that. That will be my supply for West FAC V.

Stretch wind the motor. Definitely... If you do not have or do not want to make a stooge... Look at my FW build... I just bought a winding stooge, it will be a must if you do not have an assistant.

I think you should make the front end removable and adjustable... refer again to my FW "Red 13" build to see how I do it...

Good Luck and Good Flying, Mitch

PS One more thing... you will need a winder... My first winder was a old fashion hand drill. I drilled a hole in the chuck and put in a music wire hook and secured it. 1 crank was 4.25 turns. Now I use a Gismo Gezzer (he has a website) winder with counter and torque meter. Some of my models I put nearly 2000 winds on the motor... Stretch wind lubricate and one more thing!!! replace the rear peg with aluminum tube and secure it with a slice of fuel line hose as it protrudes out of the fuselage of the model... you do not want that rear peg to slip... It is not pretty...and don't ask me how I know.