1st Time Post - Hellcat Question on covering/painting

[TomGuillow]

Hi:

I have been reviewing the various posts with a lot of respect for the skills presented by your many members.

I am building the larger Guillows Hellcat as a static model to hang in my workshop. It has been a while since I last built a balsa kit. I recall using dope as a teen and feel comfortable with the Nitrate and Butyrate technique. I use Duco cement in a syringe and especially like the ability to build up fillets that are extremely strong and fast drying. I build on sheets of Homosote over plans covered with Saran Wrap.

I'm toying with not using dope due to the odor. I am building in our dining room. I want a non-transparent (heavy) model for durability. I want a solid looking color and intend to pick a blue similar to the box cover picture. This model will never fly.

Q - If I use the 60/40 carpenters glue technique and then brush on or spray a water base color, will the fabric re-tighten after paint application? I'm striving for "no" wrinkles.

Here is the Wing under construction:


Here is a partial assembly:


My Cockpit:


Front prop:


Prop Support: Wire within brass tubing, home-made collar clamp.


Thank you... Tom

[TomGuillow]

Oh, this might be important:

I am planning on replacing the kit tissue with Silkspan.

Tom

[Mitch]

You need to shrink the paper with water BEFORE you seal the paper. AFTER the paper is sealed then you can paint. If I was to do that I would go with the 3 tone blue paint scheme.

My plane is intended to fly with rubber so I built light used 'medium navy blue' paper and 2 coats of spray on sealer.






shown here with display prop... will fly with 12 inch 2 blade prop and A LOT OF RUBBER!

You can find my build thread here on that model.

Mitch

[phil64]

Use Momokote ,which is a plastic shrink rap type covering that you apply with a sealing iron.Works great and will accept primer and paint.

[mattking]

I am new to building as an adult also.

Its such a wonderful hobby, I learn something new every time I sit down to work on a model.

I used dope on my first kit a 500 series Hurricane. I used it for sealing, attaching and top coat. (Like I did when I was 13)

My last 2 I tried white glue and water....I love it...I believe its much easier to work with than dope.

For sealing I use Krylon clear then a coat of primer....I have only built for display so far.

If you like I can post up some pics of my tissue work on my 400 series P40

I used the 400 series tissue with great success, no sagging, wrinkling or creases. I don't use water per say to shrink though. I use steam, not soaking the tissue. I found it to be a bit more even in shrinkage and not as severe. As a side benefit I noticed that if I had a difficult area I could use a few dabs of straight water and get all the wrinkles out.

[TomGuillow]

Mitch:
Nice Job. It looks like it wants to fly...

Phil:
Nice work...

MattKing:
So you wouldn't recommend replacing the tissue with Silkspan?
I would love to see your finished pictures if it's not too much trouble.

Thanks... Tom

[TomGuillow]

Mattking:

I just read your other post and you show your work, which is outstanding.

No need to answer the above post.

I will take your lead and see what the tissue will do for me.

Thanks... Tom

[Coloradoken]

I have had good luck with a 50/50 water wood glue( elmers, titebond) mix. Make sure you spray with water to shrink first. I've used wrinkle remover instead of water with good luck. Love the pilot!