1004 ~ F4U-4 First RC Conversion Build

[David Lewis]

I would make sure that on the finished model the motor, battery, servos and receiver are accessible for inspection, adjustment, repair or replacement. That means doors, removable parts, panels or hatches. Also adequate cooling air intake and exhaust for the motor.

[gordonfan24]

Thank you for the input fellow enthusiasts. Yeah Mitch, for a workbench that I designed in my head while I was @ home depot, it seems to be quite functional. I'm working on the wing now. I plan on using throttle/aileron/elevator/rudder~tail wheel/retracts. So I guess 6 channels . I'm unsure as to what servos, motor etc.yet. I still have much homework to do. The cutouts are stumping me so far. I'm just reluctant to go cutting her up, LOL .
I'll be posting a lot of pics because I need guidance advice, thanks in advance.

[David Lewis]

You might be able to locate all the equipment in the nose, and then make the cowl removable (held on by dowels/screws/magnets/latches/snaps). That will minimize the need for nose weight. The engine cowl would be split into two halves so that you can remove it without taking off the prop. If there isn't enough room in the engine compartment, lighter items, such as servos, could be installed behind the firewall.

[gordonfan24]

OK, I'm at a bump in the road. I can't see how the outer wing attaches to the center section clearly. I don't want to glue it if I'm not 100% sure. Look here>> Any ideas?

[Mitch]

I have not built the kit, but I am looking at the plans now. Looks to me like you were suppose to 'crack' the last inch of F5 and bend it to meet to the outer part of that built up TE. If you can I would cut apart that joint of F5 and the TE and then 'score a line' on F5 where it bends and 'crack' it, move it over to meet the TE. Re gluing everthing and I put a line of glue on both side of the 'crack'.

I am looking at the 'action plan', my kit has been opened for some time but not started. I do not have the main plans in front of me at the moment.

I believe you should be following some of the 'action plan' options if you want flaps or ailerons, etc.

I admire your effort, but to build a 1000 series model for RC control for your first attempt may be more than you anticipated.

But we are here to help and encourage.

Mitch

PS From what I see in your picture sand that built up center TE to match the angle of the wing TE. Do not use glue as a filler. Wood to wood contact. Sometimes if I do not get a perfect fit I will fill with slivers of wood to 'fill the gap'

Keep up the Good Work.

UPDATE: I just thought of another way to fix that problem. You could add more wood on the after part of that rib like a doubler plate to bring the finished trailing edge of the rib in line with the TE. There is always more than one way to 'skin a cat'... no offence to cats, I love cats. Usually on joints like that I will also add gussets, I do not think that would be a bad idea if you are going to fly RC, you will be putting on a lot more "G" forces than my models are subject to.

[gordonfan24]

Thanks again Mitch. I was able to deftly separate the affixed piece, crack it and bring it to it's proper location. That did the trick.

I've been pondering things and I've decided to make this a display model. This will give me a chance to hone my detail oriented skills which are woefully lacking due to inexperience. I'm going to complete the Spit and make it a flyer instead. The Corsair is hands down my favorite plane of all time due to my grandfather being a flight mechanic on them during the Korean war. So, I want to make this as an homage to him as he's no longer with us. I'm going to do the folding wings, retracts and paint it in great detail. I've tried to make videos before of different things and not had great success. I shot this video today. You guys and gals let me know what you think.
http://youtu.be/bcEHWr8H7tM

After I figured out what I didn't see on the plans things went a LOT better. All is well now and the center section is turning out nicely. Aileron fitting in progress.
I know the center section is backwards, I saw it after I upped the pic.
Been working on sanding the leading edge to the correct profile.

[gordonfan24]

WOW! Do I ever have a lot to learn. I took off WAY too much while sanding the leading edge, not once but twice . I added stringer material to build it back up. The 3rd time, I really took my time and got this result. I've got to teach myself patience, patience, patience! I'm enjoying every second of it though.

[gordonfan24]

You might be able to locate all the equipment in the nose, and then make the cowl removable (held on by dowels/screws/magnets/latches/snaps). That will minimize the need for nose weight. Normally the engine cowl would be split into two halves so that you can remove it without taking off the prop. I generally recommend eliminating as much weight as you can in the tail.

Thank you David. I'll take all the help I can get. I appreciate it.

[Mitch]

Fan24,

I am so glad you are building for static display. I want everyone to enjoy and have success. I only completed my first 1000 series model just a few months ago, that was the Hellcat. I think until you build these you do not appreciate the careful work that goes into building a model, let alone one that flies. All the mistakes you make now and add and patch and add glue and reglue and fill in etc, would weaken and make heavier the model and that would be very detrimental to a flying model.

I believe the Spirit of ST L would be a better choice. For the Corsair keep all the paper work, plans etc. I always keep the plans.

If you want to build a warbird for RC my suggestion would be the Zero. The fuselage is nice and roomy and the 400 series is much easier than the 1000, still the same scale and nice scale look.

As far as the engine goes I think They give you more parts for a static display model with a better engine?

If you have not looked at my Hellcat build thread I think you should take a look.

The title of the thread is "My Hellcat, built for one purpose..." And that purpose is to see if I can get a big 1000 series to fly on a rubber motor. My Hellcat is standing by and as soon as I get my winding stooge, she will take to the air. Actually I think I should do some trim glide flights today. So when I do that I will bring that thread back up!

Mitch

[gordonfan24]

Here's where I'm at so far. I changed my mind again and she's gonna fly. Gonna take my time and do it right. It really can't be that hard and I'm a purdy fart smeller. I have decided to go all out and go with flaps, I have to learn somehow. I have ordered sheet balsa 1/32" X 3" X 36", some small DuBro hinges and the hinge slotter kit and a few micro control horns. After I get the other side flaps sorted, I'll move on to making the elevator and stab. This is extremely fun and interesting. BTW, I'll be using a Park 400 motor, that's all I know so far. I'm looking for some rotating retracts but I'm kinda lost. I like looking around and asking questions.

[gordonfan24]

I got a bit discouraged so I decided to think about it for a few days. This always helps. So tonight, I worked a bit and made some slow progress. I think I'm actually doing OK for a newbie. I attached the outer wing sections and ran some stringers on top of the wing. I also wanted to see what you guys and gals thought about the use of lightweight spackling for filler. I bought some craft paint to tint it so it would be closer to balsa color and easier to cover. Here are a couple pics.

I went ahead and bought MotoCalc also. It looks like a real nice piece of software. I can't wait to use it.

[gordonfan24]

I've been doing a little work on the elevator. Wanted to know if the hinge spacing looks okay.

[PsyberPhlier]

I really do hope you get some stick time on a 'Trainer' first... An F4U Corsair is sooooo not a first plane.

Your spacing looks ok except for the space running forward on the elevator tip. In the pic it appears close enough to rub when the covering is applied.

Before its too late, create some ailerons on that wing.

I built a Herr F4U in 36" some years ago and the first attempt was sans the ailerons... Flight was a bear so back to the workbench and ailerons were crafted...

Ted

[PsyberPhlier]

Wait... my bad. I see you have ailerons... ooopsie lol.

Ted

[gordonfan24]

I'm confused. I've seen other Corsair build threads and they didn't use this elevator fabrication method. None of them went in to detail as to how they built theirs, so I'm fabricating the one on the plans. Is this too heavy? Is there a better way? I haven't had a whole lot of time to work on it except on Sundays. Working 70+ hours a week is cutting in to my fishing and hobby time.